The third edition of CTF took place from the 9th until the 10th of May 2023, at Fondazione Cariplo in Milan. The full-day symposium offered inspiring keynotes and panel discussions focusing on themes such as sustainable forestry; legislation, policies and traceability; the future of fashion and next generation solutions; and the industry’s path forward.
Jonatan is a Partner in McKinsey’s Stockholm office and is a leader in driving the change towards a more sustainable Apparel & Textile industry. In this work, he supports leading brands on helping accelerate the shift towards a more sustainable business model and operation, as well as supporting the technology players upstream in the textile value chain to scale up the capacity of sustainable technologies at the rapid pace needed. In this he serves a range of players across e.g., textile-to-textile recycling, innovative material technologies, sustainable dyeing technologies and circular business model players. He is also behind many of McKinsey’s publications on sustainability in the Apparel & Textile industry such as “Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value” and the sustainability related articles in the annual “State of Fashion” report.
Valerie Langer has been engaged in large scale forest conservation for over 30 years. Her focus is on leveraging markets, investments and innovation. She supports non-profit, Canopy (www.canopyplanet.org) to accelerate globally availability of Next Generation alternatives to tree fibre pulp for manufacturing paper, packaging and Man Made Cellulosic Fibres. She is a Donella Meadows Fellow and, with colleagues who helped craft the Great Bear Rainforest Agreements, was a recipient of the Fuller Challenge Award for whole system solutions.
Dr. Diana Tuomasjukka is Head of the Bioeconomy Programmme at the European Forest Institute (EFI). She has strong international networks and rich experience from working in various EU projects mainly in the context of sustainability impact assessments (SIA) and circular bioeconomy, as well as through involvement with the Bioregions Facility.
Diana’s research interests include topics related to systemic, holistic and cross-sectoral approaches to sustainability, society and innovation. Together with her unit she works towards a forest-based circular bioeconomy within the planetary boundaries where forests play a major role contributing to societal wellbeing, healthy and resilient ecosystems and value chains, and a renewable, sustainable contributor to the economy – both as a basis for timber and non-timber products, and services.
Oliver is an industry analyst and consultant with more than 18 years’ experience in the international pulp and paper industry. He has been with Hawkins Wright since 2007, working as one of the editors of Pulpwatch, Hawkins Wright’s monthly newsletter, the co-author of the Outlook for Market Pulp service, and the principal author of the Outlook for Dissolving Pulp. Prior to joining the company, Oliver worked as an analyst with the Pulp and Paper Products Council (PPPC) in Montreal, Canada.
Oliver has lead multiple consultancy projects including feasibility studies for pulp mills in Latin America, Russia and South East Asia. He presents frequently at industry gatherings.
Johannes Bogren i Vice President of Södra Cell Bioproducts. His responsibilities include the sales and marketing of Södra´s dissolving pulp products, including its pionering new materialm OnceMore®, as well as the company´s Liquid Forest™ range of sustainable biosolutions. He joined Södra´s Innovation department 14 years ago as Researcher and later on Technical Product Manager for dissolving pulp, moving on to become Technical Product Director and playing an integral role in the development of several of Södra´s pioneering products for a greener future. He´s a passionate beliver in pushing the textile industri towards a more circular business model. Johannes has an PhD from Chalmes University of Technology.
Anna Palmberg hold a MSc in Textiles from 2000. From 2000 she started working with Textile innovations and developments in various positions in the Swedish Textile industry. From 2004 and onwards Anna have worked with developments of Textiles for IKEA in various positions. Currently leading the Cellulose and Renewable Fiber Innovation agenda for Textile Furnishings at IKEA of Sweden.
IKEA of Sweden is responsible for determining and developing the IKEA range and making it available to stores and customers all over the world. IKEA of Sweden AB is based in Älmhult, Sweden, the heart of IKEA and the centre of IKEA range development and supply chain.
Sofia Jorge holds a degree in Chemical Engineering from University of Coimbra and has about 25 years of professional career linked to the cellulosic fibers sector. She began her career at Stora-Cell AB Skutskär, Stora Enso Group as a process engineer. In 1998 she joined the staff of Celbi S.A., where she held several positions from Management Systems Engineer to Director of Technical Control and Management Systems, always in close connection with the themes of corporate sustainability, social responsibility and Continuous Improvement.
In 2019 was nominated as Executive Director for Sustainability, Risk and Communication and at the moment is a Board Member responsible for Sustainability, Risk, Communication, People & Talent at Altri SGPS.
Christine has over 20 years of professional experience at the intersection of sustainability, entrepreneurship, and innovation, with a specialization in fashion.
She recently launched Sustainabelle Advisory Services focusing on innovation as the key to driving positive environmental and social impact. Previously, Christine was the Global Director of PANGAIA SCIENCE, the B2B arm of PANGAIA. Additionally, Christine was Head of Sustainable Innovation at Kering where she worked to fast-track circular and impact-driven innovations across the group. She also spent several years at INSEAD in the Centre for Entrepreneurship, where she focused on business model innovation for double and triple bottom line companies. Before that, she launched the B2B business, Edun Live, part of the ethical fashion brand, Edun Apparel, founded by Ali Hewson and Bono. She also practiced as a corporate lawyer specializing in venture capital and private equity law. Christine attended Harvard University, holds a law degree from Boston College Law School and has an MBA from INSEAD. She recently completed an executive education course through The Wharton School on Corporate Governance: Maximizing Effectiveness in the Boardroom.
Mr. Gautam is the CEO & founder of TextileGenesisTM – a pioneering fiber-to-retail traceability platform, enabled by blockchain, for the fashion and textile supply chain. TextileGenesis invented FibercoinsTM – a digital twin of the sustainable textile material (e.g., organic cotton, recycled polyester) that can be likened to a fingerprint, ensuring unique digital identity for the material that is sustainably produced. The traceability system is being rolled out globally with the leading fashion brands across suppliers in 20+ countries and three languages. Mr. Gautam is a thought-leader in the field of transparency & traceability, and a regular speaker at the global fashion and technology conferences.
Prior to starting TextileGenesisTM, Mr. Gautam was the executive vice president for the global fashion business at Lenzing – a global innovation leader in sustainable materials from Austria. Mr. Gautam led global sales, marketing, and commercialization of new innovations for the textile business (1.5 billion euros).
Prior to Lenzing, Mr. Gautam was Associate Partner at McKinsey and Principal at Booz & Company, with international management experience spanning Europe, US and Asia. He holds MBAfromCarnegieMellonUniversity(CMU)USA, and Bachelor ofTechnologyfrom IIT Bombay. Mr. Gautam is passionate about creative uses of technology, enjoys hiking, and a regular practitioner of yoga and meditation.
Sara is a sustainability expert with an international background, focused on building meaningful business cases for corporate sustainability.
Sara applies her business and leadership experience from her 18-year career in corporate, university and non-profit organizations to engage the business community in capturing opportunities and proactively avoiding risks by using smart environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices.
For the last 9 years Sara has worked in the fashion and luxury sector, as a consultant for many Italian and international fashion and cosmetics Brands and has served as Social and Environmental Responsibility Director at Christian Dior Couture before joining the OTB Group as Chief Sustainability Officer.
Sara believes that a holistic approach to sustainability is the key of success, that sustainability can bring about real change, foster innovation and inspire commitment in any organization. There is no small progress: every little effort, every little achievement is the foundation for great and lasting results.
Brooke is an experienced and respected journalist, editor and author, and is a co-founder of Techstyler. She is a leading voice in the fashion and textile industries in her role as senior sustainability contributor at Forbes, and has a reputation for “authoritative” reporting. Brooke recently authored a book charting the past 20 years of sustainable fashion initiatives in which her interviewees included Ryan Gellert, CEO of Patagonia; Annie Leonard, Executive Director of Greenpeace US; and Fatih Konukoğlu, CEO of ISKO.
Brooke has prior industry experience in knitwear design, development and production, coupled with a previous career in medical science, resulting in a unique skill set for analysing, interpreting and prioritising sustainability solutions for materials, technologies and the supply chain.
Techstyler
Techstyler is a sustainability and innovation consultancy providing intel to fashion and textile industry stakeholders. Techstyler’s research, analysis and reporting delivers trusted and objective insights on materials and manufacturing, environmental and social regulation, and consumer disillusionment arising from greenwashing.
Techstyler’s clients to date include Pangaia, Swarovski, FibreTrace, Worn Again, Textile Exchange and Bluesign.
Jenny Fredricsdotter has over twenty years of experience from the fashion industry working with buying, production and sourcing for companies like H&M and Gina Tricot, in Europe and Asia. She studied Textile Economics at the Textile Collage of Fashion in Borås, Sweden and has thereafter continued to study fashion sustainability, circular economy and mindful consumption. Jenny has been working with sustainability in fashion for more than 10 years and joined Renewcell in 2017. She is part of the management team in Renewcell, working with brand partners and fiber producers towards closing the loop in fashion industry.
Erik works as Investment Manager responsible for Sustainable Fashion at H&M Group’s investment arm CO:LAB. Erik has led investments in e.g. Ambercycle, Colorifix, re:newcell and Infinited Fiber Company. Currently, serving on the board of several companies in the portfolio. Prior to this role, Erik held various positions in H&M Group’s Sustainability Department. Before joining H&M Group, Erik worked as a sustainability consultant in the oil & gas and shipping industries. Erik holds a M Sc in Environmental Engineering.
Julia is an Investment Associate at Closed Loop Partners, a New York-based investment firm comprised of venture capital, growth equity, private equity, and project finance, as well as an innovation center focused on building the Circular economy. Julia manages deal origination, investment due diligence and portfolio management for early-stage venture capital and growth equity investments with a specialization in fashion & textiles.
Prior to joining Closed Loop Partners, Julia was a Research Analyst for a New York based consulting firm focused on supporting emerging and sustainable brands, and has varied experience working in retail, marketing, and business development within the fashion industry. Julia received her Bachelor of Science from the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she majored in Business Management with a specialization in Financial Allocation and Sustainability.
Peter Majeranowski is the President and Co-Founder of Circ, a company revolutionizing the fashion industry’s environmental impact with recycling technology for mixed fabric textiles. Before creating Circ, Peter worked in finance for an investment group focused on early-stage projects and companies across various sectors in Eastern Europe. On behalf of the group, he served in the C-suite of several portfolio companies. Peter also served 6 years as a US naval officer with several deployments to Iraq and the Middle East.
While not at work, Peter enjoys playing tennis and being on the water, as well as volunteering as a mentor for Big Brothers Big Sisters.
Peter earned a BS in Applied Economics from Cornell University and an MBA from Duke University.
Curiosity and passion are the two most distinguishing traits of Andrea Rosso’s personality. Andrea is the Creative Director of Diesel Living collection; Initially launched in 2008 as an assortment of home textiles, the Diesel Living collection extends the brand’s lifestyle and attitude to a now vast world of design, adopting important long-term partnerships with leading players in the interior design field. 2020 marks a new beginning for Diesel and Andrea, taking on new roles in the form of Diesel Sustainability Ambassador. In January 2020, Diesel launched the brands ‘For Responsible Living’ strategy, a commitment to taking actions for the benefit of current and future generations.
Bella Webb is sustainability editor at Vogue Business. She was most recently editorial associate at Vogue Business and Junior Editor at 1 Granary, and has contributed to TANK, i-D and Fashion Revolution. She has also edited commercial projects for L’Oréal Professionnel and Sloggi. Bella has an MA from Central Saint Martins, where she won the Marc Worth Award for Fashion Journalism.
Dr. Shahriare Mahmood is a sustainability enthusiast, researcher and professional in fashion industry. He has become a sustainability leader in textile-apparel industry through the relevant technical expertise and professional experience over two decades in almost all stages of textile-apparel value chain operations. Simultaneously, he was involved in research to contribute further in academic arena with the intention to enrich the substantive sustainable aspects. He has a deep expertise in process optimization as a Chemical Engineer aiming on environmental sustainability. He is the proponent for product sustainability as a part of the total sustainability. Circular economy is of his particular interest and he is intend to encash his expertise for integrating the concept in the textile-apparel supply chain. Nevertheless, his enthusiasm towards total sustainability allows him to work beyond his area of responsibility. He has served voluntarily in several international organizations in advisory role, e.g. amfori. He is well acquainted about the growing concern on environmental pollution and social compliance, fashion industry remains in focus globally. And therefore, he has the vision to carry on the critical work both in industry and in academies.
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Welcome Mingle
Registration
Introduction and welcome
The opportunity of Green Textiles
Keynote speaker
Jonatan Janmark | Partner, McKinsey & Co
Sustainable Forestry
Keynote speaker
Valerie Langer | Fibre Solutions Strategist, Canopy
Forest to fabrics; the importance of sustainable forest practices
This panel discusses the importance of sustainable forest management. Topics
that will be discussed are centered around how sustainable forestry
management is defined, how farmers work with their forests to ensure and
protect the biodiversity, regeneration capacity and reforestation. The panel will
also discuss what sustainable forest management mean for different regions of
the world as well as how it influences sourcing strategies and the demands on
raw material suppliers.
Keynote speaker
Diana Tuomasjukka | Head of the Bioeconomy Programme, European Forest Institute
Break
Moderator
Oliver Lansdell | Director, Pulp and Paper, Hawkins Wright
Panel
Johannes Bogren | Vice President, Södra Cell Bioproducts
Anna Palmberg | Material & Innovation Developer, IKEA of Sweden
Surya Valluri | Chief Sustainability Officer, Birla Cellulose
Sofia Jorge I Board Member, Sustainability, Risk, Communication, People & Talent, Altri SGPS
Legislation, Policy, and Traceability
Over the last few years, we have seen an increase in legislation related to sustainability in textiles. For example, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles will require the use of more sustainable and recycled materials as well as identification through the Digital Project Passport (DPP). Organizations such as the Textile Exchange are supporting the industry by developing standards to classify preferred materials. Also new startups are focusing on helping brands achieve visibility on their supply chains. How can fashion brands and suppliers alike navigate this new landscape? What role can stakeholders like innovators, NGO’s and industry organizations play? What is required to educate and disseminate knowledge on legislation, policy, and traceability? This panel will explore these important topics.
Moderator
Christine Goulay | Founder, Sustainabelle
12:05 – Panel
Amit Gautam | CEO & Co-founder, Textile Genesis
Sara Mariani | Chief Sustainability Officer, OTB
Claudia De Witte | Sustainability Leader, Textiles, Eastman
Lunch
Committing to the future of Next Generation Solutions
This panel discusses the collective commitment at COP27 by brands such as Kering, H&M, Inditex to purchase over half a million tonnes of fibres stemming from Next Generation Solutions. The panel will address what this commitment means for the innovators in terms of the need for scaling, investments and partnerships and the potential challenges of reaching the scale needed.
Keynote speaker
Dolly Vellanki | Innovation Associate, Fashion for Good
Moderator
Brooke Roberts-Islam | Founder, Techstyler; Senior Contributor, Forbes.
14:30 – Panel
Jenny Fredricsdotter | Circular Business Manager, Re:newcell
Erik Karlsson | VC/Impact Investor, H&M CO: Lab
Julia Viner | Investment Associate, Fashion, Closed Loop Partners
Peter Majeranowski | CEO & Co-Founder, Circ
Break
Shaping the path forward
This panel will focus on how we can shape the path towards fashion’s sustainable future and highlight the possibilities within the MMCF field. It will discuss the importance of cross industry collaborations and how we can create long lasting change by engaging different stake holders from different industries. What can we learn from the development of other fibre categories or other industries? What will be critical to continue to grow in an innovative and sustainable way?
Keynote speaker
Andrea Rosso | Sustainability Ambassador, Diesel
Moderator
Bella Webb | Sustainability Editor, Vogue Business
16:00 – Panel
Amanda Parkes | Chief Innovation Officer, Pangaia
Dr. Shahriare Mahmood | Chief Sustainability Officer, Spinnova
Christina Iskov | Head of Innovation & Academy, Global Fashion Agenda
Malva Carlsson
Conclusion | Nina Elmersson – VP Innovare, Ekman
Cocktail
Challenge the Fabric 2023 will take place on May 9 – 10, in Milan
