The CTF Award finalists 2024
Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard is an experienced artistic director who lives and works in Paris and who is primarily known for blurring the boundaries between couture and ready-to-wear. Founded on craftsmanship, an obsession with textiles, meticulous attention to detail, her eponymous atelier holds a strong focus on technical sensibility while uniting art, fashion and subversion.
Bjerregaard launched her namesake womenswear brand in France in 2021 and in June same year she had her much anticipated runway debut during Couture Week with supermodel May Andersen walking the show and music score by producer Rune Rask. A few months later Bjerregaard favored her home country and debuted digitally on the official calendar at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Paolina Russo merges futurism and nostalgia through community-driven craft and innovation. From their London-based studio, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard bring together artisanal methods and industrial production, seamlessly connecting heritage craftsmanship and modern technology. By distilling the essence of craftsmanship to its core, the designers push it to new, modern directions.
Traditional crafts such as knitwear, natural dyeing, and wood carving are modernised and challenged, resulting in a unique aesthetic blend of folkloric tradition and futuristic innovation.
Paolina Russo thrives on a collaborative ethos, working hand-in-hand with the makers in factories. This unique approach enables the brand to continuously challenge and expand design boundaries.
Paolina Russo are the winners of the Zalando Visionary award 2023. The brand is a finalist of the LVMH Prize 2023, as well as of the International Woolmark Prize 2023. Paolina Russo is part of 1 Granary’s support and mentorship programme.
Renata Brenha is a Brazilian womenswear designer based in London, with an MA infashion from the Royal College of Art (2018) and a postgraduate diploma from Central Saint Martins (2016).
Founded in 2019, her eponymous brand reframes the place of women and Latin America in contemporary fashion, based on a sustainability proposal and the reuse of resources with a strong artisanal vein. Semi-finalist for the Latin American Fashion Awards 2023 in the emerging talent category, Renata experiments with sustainable methods to develop a creative practice capable of facing the collective challenges of our times and recovering the human aspect in design.
Her textiles are predominantly developed in-house from carefully chosen materials that would otherwise be considered waste. The designer’ studio recently moved Sarabande Foundation – created by Lee Alexander McQueen to foster creative talent – a residency that has started at the end of 2023.
Sylvi Sundkler was founded in 2023 by Swedish Designer Matilda Sundkler. The brand’s inception centers around the innovative management of Sweden’s waste wool, utilizing shrinkage as a foundational concept in garment creation. Exploring the transformative potential of shrinkage, the brand narrates the journey from flat cloth to wearable attire. Initially spurred by the astonishing volume of 1100-1400 tons of Swedish wool discarded annually, the brand reimagines this overlooked resource as a sustainable avenue for garment construction. By utilizing wool to shape MMCF, the brand has developed an manufacturing process where form and texture are crafted simultaneously.
The brand seeks to bridge the gap between innovative making processes and fashion design, pioneering a progressive approach toward sustainable design practices. Currently, the brand’s focus lies within the realm of women’s wear, with ongoing efforts to push the boundaries of sustainable fashion through thoughtful design and material innovation.
vel don sa lim gracefully embraces the essence of hyper-femininity, celebrating the inherent beauty of the human body through meticulous sheer layering techniques and the use of delicate hues. Inspired by the fundamental principles of Indonesian dressing, the brand and designs explore the intricately sensual connection between fabric and the human body, highlighting the art of wrapping, knotting, cross-layering, twisting, and tying. This symbiotic relationship allows the fabric, garment, and body to harmoniously interact and drape together in a seamless embrace. It captures and represents the softness and sensuality in the contemporary art of Indonesian dressing for modern women.
Central Saint Martins graduate Yaku Stapleton uses his namesake label YAKU as a platform for adventurous creativity. Guided by sculpture and costume design techniques, YAKU shapes a grounded alternative to reality with its avant-garde ready-to-wear.
YAKU finds inspiration in the Afrofuturism movement as a vehicle to connect with his blackness and provide opportunities for others to introspect their identity through his designs. His fascination lies in combining these topics with character design, fantasy, and themes of online role-playing games like RuneScape.
The British designer of Jamaican and Vincentian descent was awarded the 2023 L’Oréal Pro Prize for his imaginative master’s collection, which showcased what he envisioned his family clan wearing in a parallel realm.
Spanish women’s accessory label ABRA is the culmination of a lifelong passion for footwear. Founder and creative director Abraham Ortuño Perez grew up in the Alicante region of Spain, an area known for its artisanal leather shoes.
Perez’s upbringing influenced his iconic designs for Coperni, Jacquemus, Maison Margiela, Givenchy, and Kenzo, catapulting the designer into the highest echelon of luxury footwear. Launching his eponymous brand in summer 2020, Perez stepped into the limelight with a series of candy-colored leather bags, pointed boots, and heeled sandals. References to Japanese pop culture and video games collide with the humorous banality of office stock imagery, while sculptural shapes bring elegance to Perez’s eccentric aesthetic. ABRA cleverly distills the designer’s personal vision into the charming accessories of his namesake house
Brazilian-born and London-based designer Karoline Vitto celebrates the most controversial and overlooked aspects of the female form. Subverting narratives about shape and size , Vitto celebrates the curves and accentuates the folds, placing the body in the centre of the design process. Inclusivity and responsible use of resources are at the forefront of her namesake label founded in 2020, with all pieces made on demand, ranging from sizes UK8 to UK28.
Karoline Vitto has been featured on the cover of Vogue Brazil, and has been worn by plus-size supermodels Paloma Elsesser and Precious Lee, as well as singers Jojo Todynho, Duda Beat and Shygirl. Karoline Vitto studied at Central Saint Martins and graduated from the Royal College of Art with a Masters in Fashion and presented her debut collection with Fashion East in September 2022, being recognised as one of the standout shows of LFW-SS23.